"Big wave riding's for macho assholes with a death wish." Point Break
I had planned on going swimming today. I need to work off breakfast, I need to get out and stretch and relax in the water. The best part about it was the sun was out and the resort finally looked like it did on the website and my shoddy iphone picks can't capture it like the hotel itself does:
So my plan, was to get sun burnt and swim, read little Mr Mercedes by the master and relax. Sounds like a great day in paradise right.
After breakfast I was hanging with my buddy Jamie and his wife and Jamie was very eager to go into the water. However, he had been told by the cabana boy that the they had to pull five people in from the rip tide already. So we needed to stay away from the reef left hand side of the picture above. Which honestly made me think the Jamie wasn't going to go swimming at all. Another buddy Kyle was texting saying he be back around two and he wanted to go out in the water, so I knew one way or another I would get some time in the water. Again, not really a plan so much as get sunburnt and swim.
As we sat there debating whether or not we would actually go and when another co-worker came up with his daughter and they were getting ready to return the boogie boards and offered them to Jamie and myself.
Now I have never bodyboarded in my life and I was pretty damn sure I would sink the damn board. However, I strapped the thing onto my wrist and headed out into the waves. It was much rougher than it had been the two previous days and it was rougher and bigger waves than when I did my triathlon here two years ago.
However, there is something magical about being comfortable in the water and jumping into and diving into bit wave after waver after wave. I never officially sunk the bodyboard but it wasn't really my cup of tea. There was a rep out with us from Australia and I passed my board to him b/c it would serve him better and I just body surfed, and splashed and played in the water. It was good stuff. I can't tell you how long we were out there but we finally headed in for some lunch. Kyle had blown up my cell phone while I was out there b/c he was ready to go for his own adventure.
I was surprised when we got back to the seats and Jamie was like you ready to go back in. I was hell ya I am ready to go back in. As we walked to the water we were joined by Kyle and the three of us ventured out into the swells again. I have no idea how big the waves were. However, for a small town kid from Indiana, these waves were plenty big for me. They knocked the three of us around pretty good. They are the 2nd biggest waves I can remember dealing with. The biggest being at Pac Grove, my 2nd time around was that 09? Literally those things were like 10 foot or something really big and crazy.
So, the three of us body surfed as much as we could. That is when all the sudden I was grabbed from behind and thrown into the water. I got up quickly to see what had happened but I knew before I ever got up what it was. It was another friend Cory, the guy who had tried to toss me in the pool yesterday and failed miserably and got a hurt foot out of it too. He got me pretty good. Kyle and Jamie got a good laugh out of it b/c they saw him coming. Fuckers! Then the four of us road as many waves as we could.
There is something great about life when you can be out in the water amongst friends and feel like you are a kid again. That is how I felt. I felt like I was at Wet N Wild or Water works and I was in the wave pool. I loved the wave pool more than anything else, well, I did love the lazy river too. I could have floated in that thing all day long. However, that is how I felt out in the waves, I have never been so comfortable in my adult life in the water. I am sure as a kid I was probably a little more adventurous than I am now.
Jamie finally pulled the plug on our foursome and we headed back to shore. Cory quickly disappeared and Kyle and I held palaver on the beach. I felt very self conscious being without a shirt, but fuck it. Its not like my shirt would have hidden the fact I was fat. Kyle was jacked to go out for some more wave riding and I was what the hell.
As we headed out we turned and looked back to shore and Cory brought down the company sales force in well force. He rolled down with like 8 or 9 people. Including my boss Eric, Koti, Greg P, Ryan S. and many others and we all went out and grabbed some waves together. I think it was the coolest moment I have ever been at this company was right then and there. Every direction all I saw was co-workers and colleges chin deep in the big waves.
We took a pounding. The waves the last time around were the biggest and strongest of them all. The life guard was even flying a red flag. However, we stayed out in force and we tried to catch the biggest waves possible. I almost lost my St Christopher necklace. I was flipped over backwards several times. I was face planted in the sand, and I loved it. I felt 9 not 39 and it was great! It was totally great!
Laua is tonight. I am hoping for some good meats! I am sure the spread will be fabulous. If it was anything like breakfast and dinner the other night I am sure it will be. I should get running or I am going to be late!
THE LAUA - Great food and great sunset!!!
you couldn't have asked for a more beautiful setting!!!
The Sunset was to die for, I loved it... I just stood there entranced by it!
Lots of good people!
Bye bye Sun!
Billy b and Koti
The spread was amazing... The top right corner is an 8 hour pig cooked in a buried oven. My god, it put my 16 hour pig to shame and now I want a big oven in the ground =)
Clear beautiful night having a night cap with the finance peeps.
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